Features
In Control of Your Destiny
Michael farms 126 acres in Borrisokane, Co. Tipperary and runs a mixed suckler and sheep enterprise. The farm carries 23 cows and followers and an Angus bull because, like most organic farmers, he favours traditional breeds. "They fatten earlier, there's no dehorning involved and they suit my land," he says. He also keeps 100 Belclare/Texel cross sheep put in lamb to a Suffolk ram. Michael's land runs into the centre of town but this is easy to forget when you walk the peaceful callows area on the outer boundary of the farm.
Good planning
Michael has been farming organically since 1997 and, as is so often the case, it was the prompting of his wife Olive that made him consider the option seriously. "I took over the farm in 1995 and at the time BSE and Angel Dust were in the news. The outlook for conventional farming was bad and I was looking for a way to distinguish my product to make it stand out," he says. His inclination was to farm in a natural way. "I don't like pushing things. It's much better to work with nature and we had always farmed in a very extensive way anyhow," he explains. Before converting Michael looked at his options carefully, something many farmers fail to do. "There was a training programme running in Tipperary at the time which was a great help and I went to visit a lot of organic farms," he says. "I got Nic Lampkin's book on organic farming and I learned more from that than any other source." Unlike the majority of farmers, Michael also drew up his own conversion plan. "That was a very good exercise and at least then, I knew exactly what I was getting into, I had the right frame of mind," he says. Conversion was easy because his stocking rate was already low. "In fact, I increased stock numbers when I went organic," Michael says. "Learning about soil fertility from an organic perspective was new as was rotational grazing and finding the correct balance between sheep and cattle numbers."
Direct marketing
It was the uncertainty of the wholesale meat trade that made Michael consider direct marketing. "You might have a finished animal ready to sell but none of the organic wholesalers would need it that week. I'd much rather be master of my own destiny and have my own market," he says. "I remember reading about a farmer in Scotland who had a marketing slogan 'from field to freezer' and I thought I'd like to do that". His opportunity came two years ago when a local councillor started a market at the old market house in Keynon St. in Nenagh. Initially, the market ran once a month and then fortnightly and became weekly in June last. The Nenagh market has between 7 and 9 stalls most weeks and is a genuine local farmer's market. "We have organic meat, vegetables, plants, free range pork, cheese, ice cream, hand made chocolates, jams, chutneys and cakes," says Michael. "It takes time to build up a business. It's mostly word of mouth and the same customers come back every week."
Michael has his animals killed at a local approved abattoir and the meat is cut up at a local butchers. "The prime cuts always sell first," he says "and lamb sells much better than beef. Sausages and burgers are good sellers as well. In summer, customers just want meat for a barbeque and in winter they go back to stewing cuts again." Michael also sells boxes of mixed cuts for the freezer and believes strongly that his products must be tailored to meet the customer's needs. "People do have to make an effort to come to the market and you must appreciate that," he says. At present he manages to sell half of his lamb through the market and he also sells on store lambs. Because of increasing demand, he will keep more heifers for fattening rather than selling at the weanling stage.
New interest in food
Organic food is not overpriced according to Michael. "It costs money to produce real food and it's important to explain that to customers," he says. "There is a much greater level of awareness of food and what we are eating now. Press coverage and food programmes are bringing it to people's attention." This gives him an advantage when selling his product Michael believes. "You can stand over what you produce and the customer likes to meet the producer". The next few years are crucial for food producers in this country according to Michael. "GM is a huge issue and if we go down that route it will kill food production in this country. I don't understand why the farming sector can't see that," he says. "If the market is there people will supply it but production must be market led. There's no point in producing food nobody wants."
Michael thinks that Tipperary Leader has been supportive of local food producers and the local food culture. A Tipperary Slowfood convivium has been set up and works with the VEC in promoting locally produced food. "The seasonality and regionality of food has been lost and people must learn about this again. Farmers must be there, otherwise where will our food come from," says Michael.
Just rewards
Michael enjoys livestock farming and it is clear from looking at his herd that he has inherited his good judgment in stock from his late father who was a cattle dealer.
He was delighted to supply meat for a Slowfood dinner in Tipperary this year and even happier that American chef and food writer, Colman Andrews, who cooked for the dinner, came to the market to talk to him personally. He was also recognised by North Tipperary County Council who presented him with an environmental award for dry stock.
"I'm very happy with what I'm doing. I have control of the business at every stage and that is what I set out to do," he says.
