Features
Food for a Winter of Discontent
The old image of the January/February period as a culinary backwater, condemned to serially reheated Christmas leftovers, has had what we might describe as a Celtic Tiger makeover. In modern Ireland the banquet is year-long, Christmas merely another peak on a permanent summit. There are, of course, 'Old Moore' types who foresee financial catastrophe and exploding bubbles in the year ahead. They may well be right and just in case they are, I prescribe the following few simple recipes as antidote to economic downturn - food for a winter of discontent!
Ramekin cooking is ideal for this time: clearly quantified, compact, comfortably enclosed.
Baked Fish Ramekin
6 portions using ramekins of 150ml capacity
(Oven at 200C/ 400F/ Gas 6)
- 350g mixed, fresh, uncooked fish such as salmon, white fish, shellfish
- 150ml milk
- 150ml cream
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh fennel or any anise-tasting herb
- Generous pinch of ground nutmeg
- Salt and pepper
- 4 eggs
- 25g melted butter
Bring the fish to the boil with milk, cream herbs, nutmeg and seasoning and simmer for five minutes. Strain, reserve liquid and keep fish in a separate bowl. With a hand whisk combine the strained liquid and eggs until well mixed. Brush the insides of each ramekin with melted butter and fill each one three-quarters full with fish. Top up with the liquid/egg mixture and bake in a water bath for about twenty minutes until firm to the touch.
Serve hot or cold, in or out of ramekins.
A small roasting tin is ideal as a water bath, (also called a bain-marie). Sit the filled ramekins in the tin and pour in enough hot water to come half-way up the sides of the ramekins.
Black Pudding Ramekin
6 portions, using buttered ramekins as in the previous recipe
(Oven at 200C/400F/Gas 6)
- 480g black pudding
- 2 eggs
- 5floz chilled cream, lightly whipped
Chop black pudding into small pieces. In a food processor blend black pudding and eggs to a smooth paste. Remove from the processor and beat in the chilled cream with a wooden spoon. Fill each buttered ramekin three-quarters full with the pudding mousse and bake in a water bath for about 15 minutes until firm to the touch.
Serve with chutney thinned with stock.
Nothing lifts dampened January/February spirits like the virtuous aroma of a newly born apple and almond pudding just out of the oven.
Apple & Almond Pudding
(Oven at 175C/350F/Gas 4)
- 2 large cooking apples, peeled, cored, chopped and tossed with a tablespoon of runny honey
- 100g soft butter
- 100g castor sugar
- 3 eggs
- 100g ground almonds
- 100g self-raising flour
Put the honeyed apple in a baking tin or pie dish. In an electric mixer beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy - about 5 minutes. Add eggs one by one and continue beating for a minute. Reduce mixer speed, add almonds and flour and mix well. Pour this batter over the honeyed apple and bake in the pre-heated oven for about 30 minutes until the sponge is firm and golden coloured.
