Features
In search of Perfect Porridge
Most people can identify at least one food item that they loathe for life simply because they were force-fed it in childhood, usually accompanied with the admonition: 'You're not leaving the table until you finish it. Think of all the starving children in the world!' Porridge features high on the list of pet food hates for many and I've only recently become a born-again devotee after years of avoidance. I'm not alone. Judging by supermarket shelves and the claims of manufacturers, porridge is enjoying something of a revival. It's difficult to know why this should be, as porridge is one of the few products that has remained unchanged over the years. We can't attribute its popularity to TV chefs or fashionable restaurants since only the very foolhardy would risk eating porridge in a restaurant. Stand at a self service breakfast counter and you will see exactly why. The container of porridge sitting in a bain marie will have acquired a nice brown crust as it de-hydrates around the edges and the grey glutinous mass within looks and probably tastes something like cooked sawdust.
Inedible lumps
With a food product that is so easy to cook, how do we get it so wrong? For a start, porridge should always be eaten immediately on cooking. Secondly, making it purely with water gives it that thin gluey consistency and nasty taste. It is a perfect match for milk or cream. I know that this presents a problem for those wishing to avoid dairy products. I've tried it with rice milk and soya milk in the interests of experimentation and both are pretty horrible. It is not necessary to soak porridge oats in water overnight before cooking. Only pinhead oats, which still has its outer husk and is not rolled, needs pre-softening. Cook the porridge in half milk/half water or all milk for a creamier consistency. About two parts liquid to one part porridge works well. Three or four minutes cooking on a reduced heat after coming to the boil is sufficient. The porridge should have some bite and should not be cooked to a mush. Served simply with milk and a dash of honey, porridge is a filling and nutritious breakfast in five minutes. Pouring cream can be added for a touch of luxury.
Sugar
A sprinkling of demerara sugar on top flashed under the grill for a minute gives a lovely burnt caramel flavour. My favourite sweetener though is a swirl of organic maple syrup. I never add salt in the cooking as this kills the real flavour. One of the great advantages of porridge, because of its relative blandness is its versatility. Dried fruit such as sultanas, dates or figs can be added during cooking as can fresh fruit. The natural sweetness of the fruit means that no added sugar is necessary. Toasted seeds and nuts like pumpkin, sunflower, linseed or almonds also go wonderfully well with porridge. Research last year in Britain showed significant levels of pesticide residue in breakfast cereals, which is particularly worrying since most children eat only cereal for breakfast. It makes sense to opt for organic cereal if possible and a survey of supermarket and wholefood shops shows a good variety of organic porridge oats. I tried three of the most widely available for a taste test - Tesco Organic, Flahavans Organic and Bunalun Organic Porridge Oats.
Flahavans
Flahavans oats have been around for longer than I can remember and have recently brought out an organic line. I tried this first and thought that the oat flakes were too chopped up and bitty for my liking. The resulting texture was a little too mushy but the flavour was delicate and perfumed like a good rice. Verdict 5/10
Tesco
The Tesco oats are less processed and have more of the husk still attached to the flakes. This gave the porridge a lovely chewy consistency and a nutty flavour. Definitely my favourite and one I will buy again. Verdict 8/10
Bunalun
The Bunalun oats came somewhere in between, a good bite when cooked but lacking in any significant flavour. Verdict 6/10
Pricewise, porridge is one of the best value for money foods available, costing a fraction of other breakfast cereals and providing a much higher nutrient content.
Getting your oats is good for you
Oats are high in fibre, vitamins B1, B2 and E and contain a probiotic agent called beta glucan that encourages the growth of good bacteria and reduces cholesterol. Traditionally oats were used to treat nervous exhaustion and depression. The renowned naturopath, Jan de Vries recommends a bowl of porridge every morning to help the nervous system.
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