Features
'Rocket Science'
Despite being around for many years rocket has continued to grow in popularity unlike a lot of other salad leaves that are in favour for a period. It is to be found on the menus of top chefs, is regularly included in all sorts of mixed salad bags and makes an unusual pesto. Its versatility has led to its widespread use in all manner of dishes. Known in America as Arugula, there are two types which are usually grown here – the standard salad rocket and wild rocket.
There is a significant difference between the two plants; the wild variety has smaller, more serrated leaves, is slower growing and perhaps hardier. A bonus for the market grower is that it is slower to bolt and in a tunnel can easily be grown as a perennial with clumps getting larger each year. Growing both types, it is possible for the gardener to have a supply all year round.
Refined Taste
I grow rocket from transplants rather than direct seeding as it reduces aftercare such as weeding and produces good quality leaf very quickly especially during peak growing season. Rocket is easy to grow but to grow it really well with the best tasting leaves is the challenge. The fiery, stressed out little monsters you see in lots of gardens will do little for your sales or palate. Put simply, rocket needs to be grown fast, in fertile soil with adequate water to avoid any check in growth. I multi-sow rocket in one and a half inch soil blocks. A pinch of seeds is sown in each block (I don’t count them but it’s probably 8-10 seeds!). Wild rocket seeds are tiny so it’s a small pinch but it doesn’t really matter as you will end up with a little clump. Sieve a small amount of compost over the blocks.
Germination will be fast at this time of year – about three days. In good quality compost growth will be rapid in salad rocket; the wild variety is a slower starter but will last longer. When plenty of white roots show through the block walls and leaves are circa two to three inches long it is time to transplant. I grow nearly all my rocket in polytunnels as they produce the best quality but also because of the problem of flea beetles. I transplant into clean, composted soil at about six inches apart in the row and nine inches between rows. You can vary this to suit the blade sizes you use when hoeing.
N0.1 Cut
From seeding to harvest in summer will be twenty to thirty days depending on harvest size required. This is a fast return for the grower and a few cuts can be taken before the plants weaken and bolt. I cut over the whole clump with a scissors and work my way through the entire sowing before returning to the start which will have re-grown if my cropping plans and quantities were correct. You will need to make successive sowings every few weeks, more often in summer than in spring or over winter.
After each cutting it is important to hoe and weed the beds to prevent weeds becoming established. Flame weeding may be possible after cutting to kill small weeds but not destroy the rocket roots.
Pests and Diseases
Rocket is a brassica so rotate as best you can. Left in too long, clubroot can form but fast growth and harvesting will minimize the risk.
The main problem is flea beetle which eats tiny holes in the leaves making them unsaleable. Polytunnels are your best defence but they can move indoors also in warm dry weather. Overhead sprinklers which produce a fine mist help too and if I suspect flea beetle are about I also cover with fleece (light covertan).
It is important to protect the leaves when small – if growing outdoors cover with fleece immediately after transplanting and keep spacings tight to reduce the need to weed and remove the fleece. Derris dust is also effective but routine use requires permission for certified growers. Hersa Vital (pyrethrum) can also be used as a spray but not close to harvest and instructions on this should be read.
So there you are; get rocking right now for tastier salads!
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