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Keeping up appearances

Offal is making a comeback now that we’re poor again says Gerry Galvin.

The popular perception of offal as a load of old tripe has been under some scrutiny recently. Not quite a culinary revolution but notable nonetheless. Recession has a habit of introducing heretofore unthought-of possibilities for cheap, wholesome food. The new Irish from Africa and Eastern Europe are also influencing old Celtic Tiger’s insistence on prime cuts and the most, only the most, expensive foods available.

The rash of ostentatious developments (so called) across the Irish landscape, homes equipped inside and out with enough paraphernalia for a moon landing, appeared to justify an equality of exoticism in the way we fed ourselves. Like the spread of haciendas on the edge of every town and village, the lexicon of eating reflected a need to see ourselves as superior to the way we used to be. Goodbye simple home-cooking, hello sushi! Recession and our newer citizens give us permission to divert from frivolous excess back to where we may be more comfortable and undoubtedly more healthy, in the broadest sense of that word.

Honest Food

Restaurant menus are one way of assessing trends and there are definite signs, green shoots if you like, that offal is mounting a comeback. The busiest butcher’s display in a Galway shopping centre features chicken livers, oxtails and lambs’ kidneys alongside trays of steak, pork fillet and lamb cutlets. The same butcher admits to an increase in demand for crubeens, oxtongues and all those neglected bits we used to love to eat. He smiles with the joy of discovery as he tells of the Polish man who turns up every week-end to collect a pigs head. Brawn! Does anyone make it at home any more? Who even knows what it is?

Very often the secrecy associated with poorer times forbids discussion. We dare not admit it: we have to pretend to be living quite as before. The food we eat describes us, tells the world who and how we are. In that context I’d say offal is for honesty and openness and not a little daring.

No need to hide that oxtail stew; lap up the liver and onions! Or you could try the following recipe of mine.

Grilled Lamb Kidneys with Lemon and Onion Puree

Four portions.

For the puree:

450g onions, finely chopped
50g butter, melted
grated zest and juice of a lemon
salt and pepper

Prepare the puree by stewing all ingredients for about 30 minutes until the onions are soft. Cool a little and puree in a blender. Set aside.

Now prepare 12 lamb kidneys by peeling off the outer membrane and washing them in cold running water. Dry on kitchen paper.

Cut each kidney in two and cut away the central core. Toss kidneys in 25g melted butter, season and grill for three minutes, longer for well done.

Serve with the re-heated puree and a few dashes of balsamic vinegar.

Chef’s tip

Lemon and onion puree is equally delicious with liver and sausages.

For those with a penchant for all things offal, the likes of Crispy Pig’s tails and Duck Hearts, I can (heartily) recommend a great book by Fergus Henderson entitled The Whole Beast, sub-titled Nose to Tail Eating.

Comments (1)

I have tried my local Tesco shop for Irish organic chicken breasts but none availabe. They had some with UK origin sticker but not organic. How can we be sure were this chicken is coming from? Organic whole chicken can be got with search in the Limerick area and large supermarkets do sell whole organic Irish chickens. Also I have noticed that butchers selling chicken breasts have no origin label displayed. I have asked were does the chicken comes from in some cases and they say it is Irish chicken. I am not convinced. Are there strict guidelines and checks done on chicken imports. Hopefully the standards are high and we have nothing to be worried about. Good luck. Regards. Monica O'Brien