Features

Meating the challenge!

Deirdre McCarthy tells Cáit Curran how she is coping with the economic downturn.

In the current climate of doom, gloom and recession, selling organic meat is a particularly tough route for anyone setting up a small business. There is a much higher recognition factor for organic fruit and vegetables and a clearer distinction between conventional and organic production methods. In a country where meat is produced on a mainly grass based system, the difference between organic and non-organic is less clear in consumer eyes. Add exorbitant supermarket prices to the equation and its not surprising that domestic demand for organic meat is modest.

Tough Times

A new development in recent years has been the rise of small scale organic retail operations selling directly to the public at reasonable prices and with minimal overheads.

One that has become increasingly recognisable in the North West is Irish Organic Meats run by husband and wife team, Declan and Deirdre McCarthy.

Declan began his career as a butcher while still a teenager in Dublin, but the lure of a lucrative job in the building trade enticed him to give up butchering for some time. While helping out a local butcher Declan became involved with Leitrim Organic Farmers Co-op and took over their direct sales at markets for a period. Now he and Deirdre operate their own business, still buying from members of the co-operative. They now sell at markets in Carrick-on-Shannon, Monaghan, Roscommon, Boyle and Sligo using two custom designed vehicles they had specially made for them.

“There is no denying that business has slowed considerably this year,” Deirdre says. “Everyone is struggling.” Like all good business people they have adapted their product to suit the market. “You have to make it more affordable for people,” she says. “The older customer will still buy the Sunday roast or a traditional cut of meat but younger buyers are more savvy. They look for a cheaper cut and something that is quick and convenient to cook to suit their working habits.” She reckons that the committed organic purchaser will still continue to buy but just spend less.

Price Guarantee

Sourcing their meat takes up a lot of the McCarthy’s time. They have specific farmers they buy from consistently and others who fill gaps in the supply chain. “We agree a price with farmers at the start of the year and that gives them confidence to produce the animals we need. It is a guarantee for them and it means a consistent supply for us,” Deirdre says. Having an arrangement with good farmers means they will get quality, well finished animals at the right time.

Deirdre says it is also important to source meat from farmers around the locations of their markets. “Many of our customers will know the farms the meat comes from and that gives them confidence in the product,” she says. They source pork and chicken from Richard and Jackie Moeran in Co. Cavan.

“Chicken is our best seller and I can safely say that we sell the best value organic chickens in Ireland at €15 each. Children love chicken and you can do so much with it. Anyone buying and organic chicken will use all of it. You can get two family dinners and use it for stock when finished.”

Another big seller is sausages made from pork, lamb and beef. “We use 85% meat in our sausages and we are building a market for gluten free sausages to order. Declan has also just started doing hand cured bacon and it is a fabulous new product that is getting a great reaction,” according to Deirdre.

Optimistic

Living and working in a border county adds to the current economic stress, she feels. “The government should have brought back the VAT rate further to help with prices,” she says. “Businesses in border towns are just closing down. Enniskillen is just half an hour from here and everyone shops there.” Deirdre is not pessimistic about the future however. “Its hard work but we enjoy it,” she says. “We offer people quality affordable food. We are cutting out the middlemen and we don’t have huge overheads. There is a huge marketing job to be done to change people’s mindset and get them supporting local businesses.”